Saturday, 15 April 2017

Galilee to Tel Aviv

We leave Jerusalem and head north into the West Bank once again, into the Rift valley. We pass through Jericho, the lowest city and one of the longest continually settled places on Earth. We stop to see the sycamore tree famous from the biblical story of Zacchaeus the tax collector.


Driving further we have a view of the Monastery of the Temptation, built on the area where Jesus was thought to have spent time in the Wilderness after being baptised by John. The Monastery looks as if it is bolted onto the side of the cliff, silently monitoring the landscape around Jericho and across into Jordan.


Soon we reach the Sea of Galilee and then climb up to Safed - the home of Kabbalah, Jewish mysticism - for amazing views across the hills and sea from above. We spend time wandering the narrow streets, looking in the galleries and shops all with unique and colourful wares.



Back on the shores of the Sea of Galilee we stop at a church built on the traditional site of the miracle of the loaves and the fish. Then at Capernaum we visit the remains of the town and synagogue where Jesus would have preached and worshipped.






Finally we make our way to Nazareth, our base for the next two nights. We explore the quiet city with its quaint narrow streets and multiple sites of biblical fame, including Mary's well and the Basilica of the Annunciation.


Next day there's a drive to Akko (Acre) on the coast. Mostly famous as a Crusader port and fortress, significant areas of Crusades-era halls have been found and restored. Much was rediscovered by accident - for example, in the early 1990s, a woman's complaint about a blocked drain led to the rediscovery of the Crusaders' subterranean tunnel from their main structures to the port.

Next a relatively short drive up to the Lebanese border. Here a walk through oceanside caverns and grottos is accessed via a cable car down from the bright pale cliffs. There's also the remains of a railway from the era of the British Mandate.

Leaving Nazareth we head down the Mediterranean coast of Israel towards Tel Aviv. We stop above the Baha'i Gardens of Haifa for a view over city and sea, and later at the restored Roman ruins at Caesarea, where we eat lunch in the sun overlooking the Mediterranean.



Our hotel is a beautifully restored building in the international style, very close to Rothschild Avenue - the hub of Tel Aviv, full of trendy restaurants, bars and cafés. Tel Aviv feels a world away from Jerusalem - the atmosphere is relaxed and fun. Everyone seems to own a dog and be out walking them in the streets.

In the morning we take a walking tour of downtown Tel Aviv and we hear how the city developed from a few old houses to a modern vibrant city in fewer than 100 years. Many buildings are in the international style designed by architects trained at the famous Bauhaus school in Germany.




In the afternoon we walk to the beach and then stroll down the coast headed for the beautiful old port of Jaffa. It's shabbat so most of the shops are closed, but there is a vibrant atmosphere and many families are out relaxing in the sun for the last day of the weekend.

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