Arrival in Jordan

Watching the desert slowly change complexion as we fly in to Amman, the air is a dusty haze that swallows the horizon. After we pass the Arabian/Persian Gulf, for a long time the entire landscape looks like milky tea - sometimes clouds give the impression of coffee topped with frothed milk. Largely featureless - mottled sometimes with red tinted blushes, later with grey patches - punctuated occasionally with unidentifiable white buildings, or huge circular irrigated fields of crops amidst the expanse of dry earth. At one point these fields dominate the view like a giant vinyl record collection spread out across a vast floor.

The land becomes much more dominated by dark grey, striated by paler fractal veins that look like the empty beds of innumerable dead rivers. Then the milk tea colour returns, suddenly adorned with almost imperceptible hints of green; then long, haphazard lines and areas of green emerge, eventually connecting until the landscape is covered by the time we land.

Amman airport is pleasant. It's elegant and spacious, although our flight seemed to be the only one arriving at the time, which may have helped.

The taxi driver who takes us from the airport to our hotel is very friendly. He spends the 45 minute drive teaching Ed some words in Arabic. Then as we drive past a mosque, conversation turns to religion and Ed's interest is an opportunity for our driver to explain how we can convert if we wish.

It's slightly surreal to be so close to the war torn countries we hear about in the news media. Syria shares Jordan's northern border and Iraq is to the East. Passing a sign on the highway indicating Iraq lies 329 kilometres along that road is unexpected, especially in contrast to Jordan's calm.

Getting closer to the city we really see the type of landscape we had imagined. Dry dusty ground with houses built in square high-rise fashion from bricks and blocks the same colour as the earth. We even see some small flocks of woolly sheep with black faces.

After checking in to our hotel we head out to try and stave off jetlag. We visit the Roman amphitheatre just a few minutes walk from the hotel. Climbing the steep steps to the top gives great views up and down the valley where the old city is built. The amphitheatre also includes two small museums which give as a small introduction to local culture - particularly traditional dress, jewellery and ornaments - which we'll be exploring more on our visit.

Soon we were starting to feel tired and knew it would be a good idea to have an early dinner. We went to Hashem restaurant which was highly recommended by a friend in NZ - thanks Rebecca! It certainly lived up to its reputation. It's located in an alleyway just across from our hotel and seemed very popular. There's no menu but we asked for a selection and we were brought hummus, flat bread, beans, salad, falafel and delicious hot tea.

On the way back to the hotel Ed was stopped by a couple of guys who wanted to take a selfie with him and shake hands. Everyone is very friendly and asks where we're from. Ed's one word of Arabic has come in useful too. It always amazes us how far you can get with a smile and an attempt at the local language - so many great memories already.