Saturday, 25 March 2017

The low point of our trip so far...

Due to road closures in preparation for the Arab Summit soon taking place on the shores of the Dead Sea, we were up early for a busy day of activities.

Our first stop of the day is the castle at Karak, built by Crusaders in 1142. The castle commands spectacular views, and we can see the Dead Sea and Israel in the hazy distance. For popular cultural context, this was the castle of the Frankish noble portrayed by Brendan Gleeson in the film 'Kingdom of Heaven'...







From Karak we head down from the high plateau of Jordan into the Rift Valley and catch our first real glimpses of the Dead Sea, with its white crystalline salt border. We stop for lunch at a resort in the south of the Dead Sea - we are around 430m below sea level, the lowest point on dry land on earth. The temperature is very tropical and there is 9 percent more oxygen in the air, although we can't really tell. After lunch we head down the many levels of the hotel to the beach - as the level of the Dead Sea is reducing at a rate of 1.5m per year, the resort has needed to repeatedly build new levels to reach the water. The sensation of floating in the water is bizarre - in the right position it's extremely relaxing, but swimming is impossible as all parts of your body rise to the surface so movement in the water is awkward. The water itself is slightly oily and slick.




Our drive on to Madaba takes us up a steep winding road out of the Rift Valley. The landscape is barren and contrasts with the blue of the sea. Our final stop for the day is Mount Nebo, from which Moses traditionally saw the Promised Land of Israel and died without entering it. A modern church is built on the remains of an ancient church there. The mosaics inside are spectacular. Some have only recently been uncovered as an excavation project lasting 8 years was completed only a few months ago.







In Madaba we head out for a group dinner in the centre of town as some in the party will be departing early. We have lamb mansaf - meat cooked with yoghurt sauce and rice. It's a Bedouin dish which we tried in Wadi Rum with chicken. Faisal brings knafah - a delicious local desert with pastry, nuts and cream cheese like filling.


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